According to our records, the history of dry furmint goes back to the 2000 vintage, which means it is 16 years old. Dry furmint wines, however, had been made in Tokaj as early as the 1990s though those were not parcel-select, concentrated wines; they could be classified as basic wines of larger estates.
Vineyards with international background or owners have known from the beginning (based on Western market structures) that even if Tokaji aszú becomes a success story, sweet wine in itself is not sufficient to keep a winery up and running. That was the reason why the production of dry wine was started regardless of the problem that no viticulturist could cope with this task.
The explanation is simple: international experts and flying winemakers did not know climate or grape varieties; what is more, local producers really disapproved of them. With few exceptions, residents did not believe in Tokaj dry wine and if they happened to disagree with the majority opinion, they did not have the faintest idea what the world wine market expects from such wine.
Remembering the dry furmint wines of the 90s, we can recall that they were either undrinkable due to the high level of acid or underripe and green or even oxidized.
This background explains why it was so interesting to taste the wines of Gróf Degenfeld Winery. Sixteen furmint wines of eleven vintages were assessed: the youngest from 2015 and the oldest made in 1995. The development of the estate’s wines is not linear: parcel-select items of recent years are outstanding, while those made at the end of the 90s and the beginning of the 2000s are not really convincing for some reason. However, those older wines were the best which had been bottled with some residual sugar or semi-dry.
All in all, it was a positive experience that Degenfeld has never fallen into the trap of high concentration-high alcohol content, and despite the failures unavoidable during any learning process every item strives for balance and lower alcohol. It seems that now that the difficulties in acid-sugar balance, proper barrel use and elegance have been successfully solved or to be more precise, a level has been reached where the various vintages require only some fine-tuning.
Zomborka Furmint 2015 (13%) I 88-90 points
Pale lemon with a slightly fizzy effervescence. Very fresh and youthful with citrus fruit, almonds, white flowers and little wet stone. Medium bodied on the palate with lovely acidity and flavours of citrus fruit along with a significant amount of barrel spice, hazelnut and vanilla, which are also present on the finish. Still very young, but given its structure, once the oaky notes are better integrated, it will be a word-class wine. It definitely needs a bit more time!
Zomborka Furmint 2014 (12%) I 85-87 points
Pale lemon colour with aromas of white-fleshed fruit, combined with a little cinnamon and cloves. Medium bodied on the palate with a taut structure and intense, but not sharp, acidity. Flavours of mandarin, cinnamon, vanilla, almond, peach and green apple. The medium finish is led by apple and barrel spice notes. Very drinkable, an already approachable wine from a difficult vintage.
Furmint 2015 (screw cap, 12%) I 84-86 points
Very fresh nose of lime, green apple and lemon grass. Light and fresh on the palate with lively acidity, green apple, pear, a little mandarin and some herbs. The acidity is delightfully rounded on the finish. A very drinkable, truly gastronomic wine.
Furmint 2013 (12.5%) I 83-85 points
Restrained nose. It’s worth allowing it to breathe a little so that the dominant citrus fruit has time to evolve. Medium body with racy acidity without which the wine may seem a little lazy. On the palate, in addition to the citrus fruit, sweet, white-fleshed fruit, such as pear and peach, stand out. A long finish with sweet spice and a hint of bitterness. The residual sugar certainly balances the acidity, but unfortunately at the expense of elegance.
Furmint 2012 I 81-83 points
Pale gold in colour. The nose shows attractive maturity with honeyed notes, dried fruit and a touch of smoke. Medium body with tight acidity and a palate dominated by citrus fruit, but beautifully complemented by white-fleshed fruit and an evolving vanilla creaminess. Medium finish.
Furmint 2012 Organic (13.5%) I 84-86 points
This is maturing in a totally different way to its non-organic siblings, the cork is also a completely different colour, much darker with a moister texture. The nose has aromas of dried peach, oily seeds and a petrol note. The petrol character remains on the palate too with a medium body and vibrant acidity. It is characterised by less citrus and dried fruit than the previous wine. Medium finish with a touch of tannin. Exciting!
Furmint Selection 2012 (13%) I 82-84 points
Very restrained nose with a little citrus and white-fleshed fruit. Medium to full bodied on the palate with rounded acidity, barrel spices and a little dried fruit. Citrus fruit appear later as the tannin also starts to dominate. Creamy structure, longer than average finish dominated by barrel spices and some yoghurt flavours.
Furmint 2011 (13%) I 84-86 points
Attractive nose showing maturity with a little tea, peach, ripe apple and a touch of punch. Medium body and acidity, with significant citrus fruit on the palate, along with ripe apricot, pear and a little smoke. A long finish dominated by sweet spices.
Furmint Selection 2011 I 88-90 points
Exciting nose of tropical fruit, minerality and a little butteriness. Lovely structure on the palate, well balanced with smooth acidity and a medium body. Flavours of ripe fruit, slight touch of tannin, wet stone, flinty notes and sweet barrel spices. Long finish. Elegant, very drinkable, super!
Furmint 2009 (13.5%) I 90-92 points
Undeniably Furmint on the nose with almond, apple, pear, peach and a slightly herbal note, then after a little aeration, complemented by dried fruit, a bit of honey and flowers. Medium bodied on the palate with a tight structure and racy acidity. The palate shows no trace of its age, lively citrus fruits, ripe fruit and lovely spicy notes alternate with each other. Elegant, vibrant, with a very long finish also demonstrating some flinty notes. I would guess that it is now at its peak!
Furmint 2007 (13%) I 75-77 points
Restrained aroma of some petrol and a little fruit. The palate is medium bodied, the acidity has preserved the wine, but the palate is falling apart. A touch of citrus fruit, earth and birthwort with bitterness increasing on the finish. I don’t believe this will ever improve, so we shouldn’t expect any more than a wine originally meant to be consumed young.
Furmint 2004 I 79-81 points
Intense golden colour. Some sultriness from sulphur, honey and medicinal water. Full-bodied with a now flabby structure, empty on the mid-palate, but lively acidity, honey, dried fruit and candied citrus fruit. Very long finish with pineapple, mandarin, mango and honey. It’s clearly past its peak, but there is still plenty to enjoy. Moreover, if tasted blind, it could easily be confused with an older Somló wine thanks to its flavours, though not its acidity.
Furmint 1998 I 82-84 points
Intense lemon colour with minimal gold reflections! On the nose, tropical fruit, banana, lychee, pineapple, some plum and a little attractive petrol. On the palate, slightly more than medium bodied, mouth-filling structure and very intense acidity. Due to the overwhelming acidity, plenty of citrus fruit on the palate, with some popcorn, petrol and a slight butteriness in the background. On the finish, meadow flowers and Mediterranean herbs, finally led one more by citrus fruit. Perhaps not totally in balance, but nevertheless there is still plenty of life in the wine. You can learn a lot from it!
Furmint semidry 1996 (11.5%) I 85-87 points
Beautiful golden colour. Restrained nose of dried fruit, orange peel and oily seeds. Medium bodied on the palate with attractive acidity. Flavours of lemon and orange zest dominate, with candied fruit, and a pinch of cinnamon and anise in the background. Medium finish, with a touch of bitterness along with the citrus fruit. Holding very well!
Furmint 1996 I 80-82 points
Ripe Mediterranean mood with lemon, orange, mandarin and a touch of petrol on the nose. On the palate, medium bodied with lovely acidity. At first glance, intense brittle with fresh citrus in the background and a touch of corn towards the finish. Already past its peak, but has not yet fallen apart, mainly thanks to its acidity.
Furmint 1995 I 77-79 points
Red gold in colour. On the nose, a little tea, oriental spice, pecan nut, mango and some meatiness. Medium bodied, still beautiful acidity and a slight tannic bitterness. Bags of citrus on the palate, but the bitterness dominates on the finish and the acidity is starting to disintegrate.
