Hárslevelű, the second most significant grape variety in Tokaj, was only discovered in the past ten years; much later than dry furmint had become a factor. This may have several different explanations. In the 1990s when larger estates began producing dry wine from furmint, hárslevelű comprised the semi-sweet category. Many believed that it was not fortunate to market several grape varieties in the same category and furthermore, they did not trust hárslevelű so much as furmint. On the other hand, winemakers reckoned hárslevelű may not be aged for such a long period as furmint, and finally when the “great dry furmint” chase started, they dropped this variety altogether.
In the end, excitingly enough, dry hárslevelű was born in the Tokaj Hill where geology is different from the Tokaj wine region. The soil does not directly cover volcanic rocks but lies on loess making the character of wines softer, rounder, looser and more feminine. These areas produced the first reference hárslevelű wines of the region in the second half of the 2000s.
Today, hárslevelű has its own show in Budapest (HÉJ, Night of Hárslevelű Wines) just like furmint and the number of its fans is also increasing. Not surprisingly, more and more winemakers make dry wines only or even from parcel-select hárslevelű grown in volcanic areas, too.
(In our humble opinion, even though both dry furmint and dry hárslevelű are serious wines to be reckoned with, the real thing may be experienced when dry wines are made using furmint as the base blended with 1/3 of hárslevelű…)
Thanks to Gróf Degenfeld we could taste 15 different wines from 12 vintages. The estate has long regarded hárslevelű as it is mentioned in the article above, so until 2011 mostly semi-sweet hárslevelű wines had been bottled. In the first half of the 2000s, however, the break experienced with furmint also happened to this variety. Some older wines with good acid-sugar balance could hold their positions while more recent, parcel-select hárslevelű vintages clearly show why this grape variety is regarded of increasing significance by many. It shows its real character much earlier than furmint, it becomes accessible sooner and is “lovelier” both in scent and acid without destroying its elegance.
Hárslevelű 2015 (13%, new Tokaj bottle, screw cap) I 85-87 points
Clear varietal character on the nose with aromas of linden blossom, apple, pear, white pepper and a little lemon balm. Medium bodied with racy yet elegant acidity and flavours of white-fleshed fruit, some chalk and mint. Elegant and very drinkable wine with a medium finish. The amiable face of Tokaj!
Hárslevelű Terézia 2015 (new Tokaj bottle, great new cork) I 90-92 points
Still very young, which can also be felt on the nose, although after a little aeration, it displays elegance and complexity with melon, white flowers, chalk and sweet spice. Medium to full-bodied with a tight structure, the wine is rounded with nothing sticking out. The acidity is beautiful and the wine has flavours of citrus fruit, wet stone, chalk and green apple. Already elegant, but worth waiting a few years before opening. Long finish and great promise.
Hárslevelű Terézia 2014 (12%, new Tokaj bottle, silly diam cork) I 85-87 points
Ripe apple and pear with a little melon, brittle and sweet spice on the nose. Medium bodied with a firm structure and vibrant acidity. Oak can be clearly felt on the palate, with lovely spice, clove and vanilla, behind which citrus fruit luxuriate. Some tannins also feature in the finish.
Hárslevelű semidry 2013 (12%, Transparent Bordeaux bottle, screw top) I 84-86 points
Ripe apple, pear, white flowers and grape on the nose. Light on the palate with rounded acidity. A balanced wine with sweet white-fleshed fruit and a little green apple tartness. The sugar rounds the wine nicely. A perfect gastronomic wine.
Hárslevelű Terézia 2013 (12%, new Tokaj bottle, old label, cork) I 82-84 points
Interesting, unapproachable nose with citrus fruit, herb and oak aromas, it opens slowly but with increasingly intensive floral notes. Medium bodied with a taut structure and lively acidity, although the citrus dominates everything on the palate and the finish is especially characterised by citrus notes too. Seems very young with acidity rather over-dominant. I would wait a while before drinking.
Hárslevelű Terézia 2012 (12.5%, new Tokaj bottle, old label, cork)
corked
Hárslevelű semidry 2011 (12%) I 82-84 points
Restrained on the nose with aromas of Jonathan apples, candy floss and rape-seed honey. Light on the palate, with rounded acidity, white-fleshed fruit and a touch of bitterness at the end. Medium finish with a bitter tonic note again playing a key role.
Hárslevelű medium sweet 2009 (13%) I 81-83 points
Intensive aroma of buttered corn, apple and green apple, with a rather Burgundian character to the nose. Medium bodied with rounded acidity, with the buttery creaminess also appearing on the palate along with overripe fruit, apple and pear. Unfortunately, the balance is tipped a little towards the sugar, which detracts from its elegance, but nevertheless an easy-to-drink wine. Medium to short finish.
Hárslevelű 2005 I 73-75 points
Very dense oaky nose. There is also plenty of oak on the palate. Medium bodied with rounded acidity, the tannins almost sting and the aromas are totally characterised by barrel spice.
Hárslevelű 2004 I 76-78 points
Citrus fruit, orange zest, mandarin and a little ginger on the nose. Medium bodied, rather soft acidity, somehow the whole structure is splayed. Flavours of apple and citrus fruit with a short finish.
Hárslevelű medium sweet 2004 (13.5%) I 83-85 points
Exciting nose of dried fruit, peach, apricot and dried apple rings. Medium bodied with rounded acidity. The palate reflects the nose, but also with a hint of honey and some orange zest. Medium long finish. Beautiful wine!
Hárslevelű late harvest 2002 I 80-82 points
Nose reminiscent of old aszú with dried fruit, tobacco, rose hip jam and bread crust. Similar on the palate. Medium bodied, but unfortunately the acidity is far from resembling that of aszú, a bit flabby. Flavours of tobacco, cocoa, dried and overripe apricot and peach, and some black tea. Past its peak.
Hárslevelű late harvest 1998 I 86-88 points
Restrained nose, reminiscent of Riesling with ripe apple, white flowers and a touch of petrol. Medium bodied with delightful acidity. The palate also displays some petrol, apple, peach and flowers with a touch of honey on the medium long finish. In really beautiful shape!
Hárslevelű late harvest 1997 I 77-79 points
Candied orange, ripe apple, pink pepper and a touch of honey on the nose. Medium bodied with acidity still there, but the palate displays a disturbing butteriness underpinned by citrus fruit and apple. Medium finish, past its best.
Hárslevelű late harvest 1996 (11%, medium sweet) I 71-73 points
Intense nose of lots of brittle, roasted hazelnuts and overripe peach. Light bodied with flabby acidity and a palate dominated by oaky notes, which is probably still holding it together. The finish is also dominated by brittle and a growing lemon note.
