Following my whirl through some lesser-known Austrian varietals a couple of months ago, my latest Austrian odyssey takes me on a brief tour of some slightly older vintages, both white and red.
This time saw a more typical parade of white varietals commonly found in Austria: Grüner Veltliner, Riesling, Weissburgunder (aka Pinot Blanc), Grauburgunder (Pinot Gris/Grigio), Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, considered the signature grape of Steiermark. Many of these wines are downed young in the country by the Austrians themselves and tourists, so it was a pleasure to try some with a little more age on them and see how well they were maturing.
Skoffe Grassnitzberg Weissburgunder 2013 (Steiermark) I 88 points
Fresh citrus, stone fruits, ripe apple and vanilla on the nose. Medium bodied and textured with steely minerality on the palate. Creamy with ripe stone fruit and some almond notes. A touch of bitterness on the finish.
Nigl Senftenberger Piri Grüner Veltliner 2012 (Kremstal) I 90 points
Fresh green apple, citrus fruit, white pepper, spice and toast on the nose, with just a hint of petrol and nut. Crisp acidity and tight structure with an attractive oily texture and flavours of pear, lime zest and cream underlain by a spicy saltiness. Lingering mineral finish.
Esterhazy Lama Chardonnay 2010 (Burgenland) I 92 points
Medium lemon in colour. Honey, dried fruit, lemon zest, peach, baked apple, vanilla and toffee packs a punch on the nose. Viscous, balanced and elegant wine with fresh acidity, luscious fruit and stoniness. Lovely combination of varietal character, minerality and oak use. Long salty finish.
Sabathi Jägerberg Grauburgunder 2013 (Sudsteiermark) I 89 points
Enchanting nose with quince, citrus peel, sultana, nut and vanilla. Intense and perfumed. Some tannic grip with grainy acidity and noticeable alcohol. Complex palate of almond, hazelnut, spice, stony saltiness, quince, pear and white peach. A wonderful creamy, buttery texture is rounded off with a stony finish.
Tement Sauvignon Blanc 2008 (Sudsteiermark) I 92 points
Intense varietal aromas of gooseberry jam, nettle and elderflower. Still fresh on the palate with wonderful crisp acidity, bright lemon, gooseberry puree and cooked white asparagus underpinned by stony minerality. Long finish. Simply delicious.
Domäne Wachau Kellerberg Riesling Smaragd 2008 (Wachau) I 93 points
Dry elegant wine. Aromas of lemon, yellow apple, nuts, wax, petrol and mineral. Zingy acidity with a luscious oily texture with plenty of peach, yellow and apple and pear. Lingering stony, salty finish. A wonderful example of an aged Riesling.
Interestingly the reds turned out to be somewhat different to what I had expected. Zweigelt, Blaufränkisch, St Laurent and their ilk were nowhere to be seen, instead a trio of wines made from Bordeaux varieties graced the tasting table. Twenty years or so ago, we learnt, jumping on the French varieties band wagon like so many other countries, Austria had planted a lot of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. However, the trend is more in the Blaufränkisch, hence Austrian, direction nowadays. Thus, a rare treat was in store.
Johanneshof Reinisch Reserve 2006 (Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot) (Thermenregion) I 92 points
Rich, intense nose of plum, raisin, prune, chocolate, oriental spice, charcoal and toast. Full bodied with lively acidity and velvety tannins. The palate reflects the nose with sweet ripe fruit, forest floor, a touch of green pepper and some cappuccino too. Long finish. Holding up wonderfully.
Esterhazy Schneiderteil Merlot 2006 (Burgenland) I 92 points
Complex nose of smoky black plum and spice with liquorice, charcoal, cloves, prune, forest floor, truffle and dark chocolate. Full bodied with smooth, well integrated tannins, bright acidity and noticeable alcohol. Dark fruit on the palate with some oregano, sun-dried tomatoes and a slight earthiness. The long finish is marked by a touch of bitterness and a mineral note.
Prieter Ungerbergen Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 (Neusiedlersee) I 85 points
Aromas of dark chocolate, prune, blackcurrant and spice complemented with liquorice, cedar, leather and toast. Rather noticeable alcohol on the palate. A little lacking in freshness, despite still maintaining good acidity, with flavours of mushroom, tobacco and blood orange. Very earthy and smoky. Perhaps a little tired and past its best.
