Holdvölgy’s aim is to become an iconic, international, premium brand, and from the perspective of their current capital strength, teamwork and winemaking philosophy, it seems that this could actually become reality in the near future. Moreover, their young winemaker, Tamás Gincsai, is committed to the highest quality.
The Holdvölgy winery can be found at the heart of the Tokaj wine region, in Mád. The Mád basin’s soil and climatic condition, as well as its macro and microclimate, occupy a special place in the wine world. We know from old charters that the market town of Mád was already the meeting place of barons, counts, other nobles and wine merchants as early as the fifteenth century.
To this end, Holdvölgy manages 26 hectares in Mád. The estate has made the finest areas of seven different vineyards its own. Their maturation cellar is almost two kilometres long and, at the same time, theirs is one of the longest oldest cellar systems in the neighbourhood, some parts of which had already been constructed and were in use in the fifteenth century.
Holdvölgy’s aim is to become an iconic, international, premium brand, and from the perspective of their current capital strength, teamwork and winemaking philosophy, it seems that this could actually become reality in the near future. Moreover, their young winemaker, Tamás Gincsai, is committed to the highest quality – he once summed up his winemaking philosophy as follows:
I believe that a winemaker can only be really credible if he feels at home with white, red, rosé and sparkling winemaking. I also participated in two red wine harvests at Vylyán, under the wing of István Ipacs Szabó. In the end, I was feeling extremely homesick for Tokaj. At that time, a friend told me that Holdvölgy was looking for a winemaker. This year is already my second vintage, and I feel honoured that I can continue what Stephanie Berecz started. Our vines can be found in the Holdvölgy, Úrágya, Nyúlászó, Király, Kakasok, Betsek and Dorgó vineyards. I have state-of-the-art technology at my disposal from processing the grapes right through to bottling and one of Tokaj’s best viticulturists, Laszló Hornyák as my colleague. We need his perfect work too, as I’m well aware that the quality of the wine is 80% determined in the vineyard.
Tasting notes
Hold and Hollo UPPP 2015 I 83-84 points
Lightly sparkling wine produced from 100% Zéta, bottled under screwcap at pressure of ca. 3 bar. Zéta is characteristic of Tokaj, but has actually become somewhat of a marginal variety nowadays. It regales us specifically with floral, white-fleshed fruit aromas and a delicious sensation of acidity. Some producers in the region use it in sweet blends, whereas here Holdvölgy has bottled it as an off-dry varietal bubbly. Light, almost airy, summer refreshment.
Hold and Hollo DRY 2013 I 87 points
This blend is produced from 70% Furmint, 20% Hárslevelű and 10% Sárga Muskotály. Initially waxy, with some white peach, this fresh aroma is mixed with a little bottle bouquet of aromatic grape skin. A ripe structure, stretched out by the acidity, making it a little thin on the mid-palate and giving the impression of a light-bodied wine, although the characteristic Tokaj salty, stoney minerality is still clearly present in its aroma profile. The 2014 Hold and Hollo DRY will already contain a little Kabar, which, similar to the abovementioned Zéta, is also a Tokaj variety. The winemaker will use this to promote aromatic richness.
Holdvölgy Vision 2013 I 92-93 points
65% Furmint makes up the backbone of the wine, complemented by 25% Hárslevelű and 10% Kabar. The grapes come from the Betsek, Holdvölgy and Nyulászó vineyards, and are harvested in several tries. Fermented and aged partially in stainless steel and partially in oak. A ripe, moderately intense wine, demonstrating tropical fruit, the beginning of some petrol/skin aroma and stony minerality. A dynamic medium-bodied wine, pulsing with minerality, vibrant, vigorous acidity, and extreme finesse and elegance. Perhaps one of the best Hungarian white wines at the moment! (The 2013 Vision awarded the 2015 Decanter Asia ‘Regional Trophy’)
Holdvölgy Vision 2014 (sample) I 88 points
The assemblage is the same as that of the 2013 Vision. Markedly primary aromas of pear, apple and white-fleshed peach, together with a fine mineral character. On the palate, the latter is more intensely felt along with some lemon essence, accompanied by flavours reminiscent of apple. Engaging freshness and lively acidity, unbridled despite its two years of age. However, it definitely needs a further year and a half to display all its virtues. Clean and linear, perfectly reflecting the perfectionist attitude of the winemaker.
Hold and Hollo SWEET 2008 I 89 points
A ripe wine with strong botrytised aromas, evoking fennel, herbal horehound associations in addition to its dried fruit character. 7g/l acidity partners 67g/l residual sugar, providing excellent balance on the palate. Apricot flavours, in the form of both jam and dried fruit, while from the mid-palate, vibrant lemon essence and delicious mandarin oil notes also make themselves felt. However, the entire flavour profile is infused with a strong saline sensation, further enhancing the freshness of the wine. According to the winemaker, the wine is now at its peak, although its composition will ensure that it holds for a while.
Holdvölgy Signature 2007 I 91-92 points
Slightly loamy, sandy water and rich tropical fruit, however as it opens a minty character begins to dominate the aroma. The balance of acidity and sugar is tilted towards sugar (125g/l), although it’s not displeasing, whereas the level of alcohol, at 13%, makes the wine a little unwieldy. Nevertheless, this Signature is an extremely pleasant wine with a rich palate of flavours. Pair with a selection of blue cheese to enjoy at its best.
Holdvölgy Signature 2011 I 90 points
This wine’s nose evokes associations of mint, sweet spice, mango, passion fruit and fresh mushroom. In 2011 in Tokaj, there was not sufficient botrytis, so this wine is made just from shrivelled berries. (Nota bene: botrytis adds mushroom and medicinal notes to Tokaj sweet wines, whereas shrivelled berries rather give a tropical fruit character!) Residual sugar is 150 g/l, but is accompanied by sufficient quantity and quality of acidity. Compared to the above 2007, the 2011 version is superficially smoother and better balanced, but taking its age and vintage characteristics into consideration, its aroma does not display the same depth as that of its predecessor. (The 2011 Signature won gold at the 2016 Decanter World Wine Awards in London)
Holdvölgy Zéta Szamorodni 2008 I 92-93 points
A whiff of botrytis, but with fresh champignons, a touch medicinal, developed character, stoney, oriental spice (sandalwood), a little ginger and, well, rather exotic notes. Honey and dried fruit on the palate, with an oily texture, intense acidity, broad and multi-layered, well-defined structure, endless finish, with a touch of the sweetness of spicy oak.
