It is pouring rain and I can see my breath as I climb the hill from the Siklós bypass to the house in the Gallows-tree single vineyard. Tamás stands on the veranda, offering me coffee while he lights a cigarette. The 7-hectare estate is absolutely chemical-free, and since 2015 they've been growing everything organically, while trying not to get too big and thinking twice about what they spend their money on. That's another way of looking at sustainability, isn't it? "I don't want to make any more work for myself, I just want to enjoy life and what I have," says Tamás, and looking at the beautiful view of Siklós Castle in the rainy weather, I can only agree.
Irsai Oliver 2024 I 85 points
Light lemon colour. The nose is full of white flowers and pears mixed with citrus. Light and fresh on the palate, with lively acidity, lemon flavours and a floral finish.
Olaszrizling 2024 I 86 points
Pale lemon colour. Subdued on the nose, it needs time to open up, but then brings nice white fleshy fruit without the almond bitterness. Medium body, round acidity, with apple and a touch of crab-peach on the palate. The finish is medium.
"I bless my brain that we dared to stay small!“ the winemaker continues, ”I see where Tamás Günzer (Winemaker of the Year 2023 in Hungary, from the Villány wine region) has come to, I respect him, I appreciate him, maybe even envy him a little, but I would never change places with him." A bigger estate means more work, more administration, more stress. Even instead of building a new warehouse, for which they could and should have taken out a preferential loan, they decided to stay in the warehouse in the city (Siklós), rented for 40,000HUF a month. It is true that every time they need to label, they have to drive to the site three minutes away, but they calculate that the new warehouse would have paid for itself as an investment over 80 years.
Kékfrankos rosé 2024 I 88 points
Medium cherry colour. Cherry candy on the nose, touch of co2 on the palate, zippy acidity, schiller-like more serious wine. On the palate, a serious spice set indicates that the winemaker is not exactly an advocate of easy summer drinks. The finish lingers on the palate.
Kékfrankos 2021 I 90 points
A deeper than medium ruby colour. Nice spiciness on the nose, mainly sweet spices, with a growing cherry character. In the mouth, good proportions, lively acidity, medium body, with a cool and long finish. Pure fruit bomb, supported by the barrel, I was surprised when I looked at the alcohol (15.5%) because it is not noticeable at all.
The ars poetica is also clear: For me, the tranquillity of this hill is worth more than anything. In the morning, I sit out on the terrace and look out over the city while the deer come in to drink. I feel at home here and I wouldn't trade it for anything!
