The venue was Kéthely, at the Kristinus winery, where accommodation and even a wine cinema now await its guests. It was interesting to see that although Ottó Légli, president of the winemakers’ trade organisation (HNT) works in this wine region, he neither came to the presentation, nor sent in any of his wines.
Unfortunately, the organisation wasn’t perfect either. A bus picked up members of the press from Budapest. It’s not my duty to find fault with how they were selected, but it’s a long time since I’ve seen and heard so many unprepared, scoffing parodies of journalists, who didn’t know anything about wine, getting drunk and constantly talking nonsense, as were gathered together here. (If the shirt doesn’t fit, then please don’t take this personally.) Moreover, the whole day was a mad rush. By the time we arrived there, there was less than two hours to talk about twenty wines, and for everyone to taste them all (an average of 3-5 wines per table). It was impossible to ask questions as a journalist and taste professionally. The totally unnecessary opening ceremony took up 25 minutes of those two hours and in the last ten minutes we were constantly pushed to head to the restaurant for lunch. Off we went, but the lunch arrived with ridiculous delays; there were twenty-minute breaks between course, meaning we easily spent 150 minutes in the restaurant which we could have made better use of working instead.
In addition, we couldn’t even go back to taste and ask questions after lunch, on the one hand because the bus had to set off(!), and on the other, because the presentation of the wines to the public had already begun. For which they had to buy tickets. You get this, don’t you? A weekday, Thursday to boot, at two o’clock in the afternoon, in a country where everything is centred on Budapest, a new wine presentation, which you had to pay for, two hours away from the capital. During working time. Of course, not a soul came…
Some of the winemakers saw the situation for what it was and went home even before we did. What happened with the others I don’t know, because they herded us onto the bus and packed us off home.
Dear winemakers, I also regret the fact that I didn’t have the chance to talk to everyone and that I couldn’t taste all the wines. If I missed you out, it was not meant as a slight to you, I simply didn’t have enough time. My apologies for this.
So now to the new wines:
Kislaki Érintetlen Merlot 2016 I 86-87 points
Liquorice and red berries on the nose. Very fresh and youthful. Flavours of blackberry and other fruits of the forest with a medium finish. Very drinkable. Super!
Hujber Zenit 2016 I 84 points
Vine blossom on the nose, light and fresh with lots of citrus flavours. It will be even better once the acidity has softened a little.
Buzás Olaszrizling 2016 I 86 points
Classic varietal character on the nose. Light on the palate with good acidity. Extremely well balanced, with citrus and white-fleshed fruit. Elegant composition.
Kristinus Pinot Noir 2015 I 88 points
Raspberry and strawberry on the nose. Medium-bodied with a firm tannic structure, playful acidity and flavours of red berries and a little dried leaf. Long finish with a warm character. It’s a long time since I’ve tasted such a good Hungarian Pinot Noir.
Bujdosó Irsai Olivér 2016 I 85-86 points
Classic fresh Irsai, with white flowers, grape and citrus fruit. Tight structure, crisp acidity with the flavours reflecting the aromas.
Garamvári Rosé 2016 I 87 points
Fresh, spicy wine with rounded acidity, a cut above the tutti-frutti world and plastic taste. Exciting rosé. I’m curious how it will evolve.
Pócz 2013 I 88 points
Not a typo, this wine doesn’t have a name.
Conjures up Bordaux on the nose; deep, fruity and leathery. Bright on the palate with lovely acidity, plenty of fruit and some earthy notes. Long finish. Very attractive wine, but still too young to break open. Will be even better in two to three years!
