As in all trades, in winemaking we can also find fantastic experts whom people either love or hate due to their private or public lives. Others are reserved and avoid the limelight. There are only few professionals whose work is simply perfect both in the vineyard and the cellar and who, in addition, are so loveable, frank and open that nobody dislikes them. What is more, one feels that they are loved by everybody, really. Dr György Lőrincz from the Eger wine region is one of these latter.
Unfortunately, Eger – though indisputably famous for not only István Dobó Commander of the Eger Castle during its siege and Géza Gárdonyi, writer as well as for wine – lost much of its excellent reputation during the Soviet occupation and even the past few decades have not been long enough to restore its old fame. The mass-produced Bikavér wines during the Socialism did not offer much pleasant experience to consumers and similarly, the legendary Szépasszony valley was not known for high quality either. György Lőrincz (and many others, including Tibor Gál, Lajos Gál, Vilmos Thummerer Imre Kaló and the list goes on) was and is convinced that Eger and the wine region have had tremendous untapped potential and deserved more. His first bottles of wine appeared in the market in 1999 and the estate known today as St Andrea has been gradually developed since. The first successes, however, were followed by severe difficulties. In 2005 István László, co-founder of the winery and a good friend of György Lőrincz passed away and the dream seemed to come to an end. It was then that the viticulturist who was almost a complete atheist opened the Good Book. Something started then which resulted in him believing in God and as a Theology graduate (from Saint Athanasius Greek Catholic Theological College) encourages others to follow his lead.
It is enough just to look at the names of wines produced in the winery: Áldás (Blessing), Örökké (Forever), Csakegyszóval (Only say the word), Boldogságos (Blessed), Valóban méltó (Truly worthy), Merengő (Musing). György Lőrincz says he is working in God’s vineyard and when tasting his wines, hearing his thoughts and speaking with him one feels, without doubt that this is really so. As for wines, in the past decade St Andrea slowly decreased the number of varietal wines (i.e. those items which are made from only one kind of grape variety) and focuses on cuvee wines instead. This is old school; vines were planted mixed and harvested together but today more attention is paid to proper harvesting times and the different wines are paired (i.e. blended). Egri Bikavér and the other Eger wine of protected designation of origin, the white Egri Csillag are also such blends. However, it is a different issue that at St Andrea each name carries an important message so even though several Bikavér wines are made, they bear different names. Often only the small print at the back label reveals that the wine is indeed Bikavér.
Needless to say, winemaking plays only a small role in György Lőrincz’s life. Besides, he is also building a church, places Virgin Mary statues in the vineyards, forges and shapes the community where he works and does all this hoping that he will become truly worthy of all those gifts that God granted him by divine mercy.
You can read more about St. Andrea wines here.
Photos by Piroska Koltai
